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Routes in Amphitheater

Corner Journey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Election Night T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
FNG S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Happy Boyfriend S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Imaginary Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imaginary Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Long-stemmed Rose T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mammary Lane S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polio Roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Violet Hour T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 167 total · 13/month
Shared By: Sarah Meiser on Aug 27, 2017 with updates from Total Arb
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

This appears to be a recently added sport climb between the trad lines Corner Journey and I Hear My Train A-Comin' at The Amphitheatre Wall. It does not appear in the 2017 edition of Bow Valley Sport by Derek Galloway. The Banff Rock guidebook by Chris Perry shows a 5.10a R trad route in this vicinity called Mammary Lane, so perhaps this is a retro-bolted version of that originally ill-protected line.

A few strenuous undercling moves are required to pass a minor roof at the start. This felt like the crux. Thoughtful, steep, and fun, 5.9/5.10a climbing leads to the anchor. The second to last bolt seems awkwardly placed far left of the natural line, and getting to it feels a bit dicey. A fall here would mean penduluming with your feet several feet higher than the last bolt. These moves can be protected by a bomber finger sized cam placement in a horizontal crack.

Location

The only bolted line just left of Corner Journey.

Protection

Bolts and an optional finger sized cam (BD 0.3 X4 was perfect). Double bolt anchor at top.

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