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Mild Horses

5.5, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 116 votes
FA: Ward Smith 5/16
New Hampshire > Rumney > Buffalo Corral > Slab Wall

Description

This is the second right most route and the second easiest in the East Wall. mostly smooth, lightly featured slab with some edges thrown in.

Smooth sailing for the most part with a route-finding crux at the last bolt.

A perfect beginner lead.

Location

2nd climb from the right 

Protection

5 Bolts to pigtails

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo of Mild Horses
[Hide Photo] Topo of Mild Horses
Great climb. A lot of fun for a warm up for the rest of the slabs.
[Hide Photo] Great climb. A lot of fun for a warm up for the rest of the slabs.
It looks as if somebody was trying out their new crampons on this route. I am pretty hard to surprise these days but I was a bit shocked at this one. It's summer, Rumney is not dry-tool friendly, it's a friction slab… it's summer. <br> Respect the rock
[Hide Photo] It looks as if somebody was trying out their new crampons on this route. I am pretty hard to surprise these days but I was a bit shocked at this one. It's summer, Rumney is not dry-tool friendly, i…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tara Lusher
Vista
 
[Hide Comment] While this is the lowest rated route on the wall I found it more challenging than the other routes, save Stampede and Flaming Arrow. I did lead this route and found it harder than Asbury Park (5.7) at the 5.8 Crag. Perhaps this is one of those routes that is harder if you are shorter, but struggling to lead a 5.5 can really get you down! Good thing I moved left across the wall to redeem myself. Aug 1, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Tara, this route wanders a good bit to find the path of least resistance. If you miss a zig or a zag it could end up being a bit harder. It also involves a few true friction moves so if you are a fan of having something to hold on to that could be an issue. Either way, glad you enjoyed the rest of the climbs :) Aug 1, 2019
Owen Tranchemontagne
 
[Hide Comment] fun slab Aug 17, 2019
dragons
New Paltz, NY
  5.6
[Hide Comment] For me (5'0") the crux has always been moving up above the 3rd bolt. I didn't get the impression this was very height dependent, but it might be. I trend left, step up on nothing (just smearing on dmooth slab) with maybe a little "reverse palm mantel" from my right hand, and grab for that small, right-facing corner a couple feet left of the bolt, which is pretty solid. Is that corner "on"? I wonder how other people do this. My partner went straight up the bolt line yesterday, and found that way 5.7ish. I followed it that way on TR and it's definitely more challenging than going left.

FWIW I think the rest of the route is 5.5ish, but this particular move leads me to give it 5.6. Actually I think this move is more difficult than anything I do on Ghost Pine. Aug 24, 2019