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Book of Sins S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mighty Mouse S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Night Songs S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Soldier S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport
FA: ???
Page Views: 353 total · 29/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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13 Opinions

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Description

I've heard this one called as much as 5.11d but I found it to be a good bit easier than that and it hasn't seen all that many ascents so I figure I will leaving with no letter grade until we get more votes here.

As for the climbing, Pleasant, Not too hard to start not to hard to finish but the middle gets a bit devious. I found using certain foot work made it quite reasonable. I will say more reasonable for tall folks than short.

worth doing and please let us know what you think for a grade.

Location

2nd route from the left end.

Protection

2 bolts to anchor.

Photos

Ramona Filipi
Medford, mA
  5.11c/d
Ramona Filipi   Medford, mA
  5.11c/d
What I think for the grade - I have done a bunch of 11a/b and just a few 11c/d. The effort and difficulty aligned with the 11c/d grade. As an example, Nicky's crack required as much effort and similar # of attempts for me. However, my experience is limited, so take my grade with a grain of salt! Oct 22, 2017
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.11b
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.11b
Was tough for me. End of the day run so maybe it'll feel "a good bit easier" another time. Apr 28, 2018
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
5.11c
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
5.11c
I’d say 5.11c. The crux move seems reachy to me, so I could see how this would feel harder still for shorter climbers. May 10, 2018
Xander Johnson
  5.11b
Xander Johnson  
  5.11b
I'd say it's about 5.11b. Was tricky but really only the one crux move. I'm 5'8" with a 5'6" wingspan and managed to pull the crux without the intermediary hold on the face. A couple of smaller people I was with top roped it and managed to reach the crux as well. May 14, 2018
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
This is probably an old Eric Mushial route from when he lived across the street May 29, 2018
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.10d
SPOILER ALERT!!!
Felt 5.10d to me. Two really good hands on the rail. Right foot on a small edge. Big left heel hook. Right hand on a bad crimp. Pull yourself up just a bit and grab the good crimp. All jugs after that. Of course, this beta only works for tall people. My wife is 5'2" and it was probably 11b/c for her. Jul 8, 2018

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