[Hide Comment] What I think for the grade - I have done a bunch of 11a/b and just a few 11c/d. The effort and difficulty aligned with the 11c/d grade. As an example, Nicky's crack required as much effort and similar # of attempts for me. However, my experience is limited, so take my grade with a grain of salt! Oct 22, 2017

[Hide Comment] Was tough for me. End of the day run so maybe it'll feel "a good bit easier" another time. Apr 28, 2018

[Hide Comment] I’d say 5.11c. The crux move seems reachy to me, so I could see how this would feel harder still for shorter climbers. May 10, 2018

[Hide Comment] I'd say it's about 5.11b. Was tricky but really only the one crux move. I'm 5'8" with a 5'6" wingspan and managed to pull the crux without the intermediary hold on the face. A couple of smaller people I was with top roped it and managed to reach the crux as well. May 14, 2018

[Hide Comment] SPOILER ALERT!!!
Felt 5.10d to me. Two really good hands on the rail. Right foot on a small edge. Big left heel hook. Right hand on a bad crimp. Pull yourself up just a bit and grab the good crimp. All jugs after that. Of course, this beta only works for tall people. My wife is 5'2" and it was probably 11b/c for her. Jul 8, 2018

[Hide Comment] The climb is called East West East. This was bolted by Cliff Mask circa 2000 and rated 10c. Sep 4, 2018

[Hide Comment] With Cliff's height that is not surprising! Sep 4, 2018

[Hide Comment] With the report of the FAist calling this 5.10c and the hardest vote here on the proj at 5.12a I think this is officially the least consensus grade at Rumney! Sep 4, 2018

[Hide Comment] Sent this yesterday. At 5’3”, I made the reach without having to smear my right foot. Not 100% sure this link will work, but here’s a short video of my beta through the crux:

instagram.com/p/BxznCnzjC6V… May 23, 2019

[Hide Comment] Fun little one... There were three of us on it. It was totally height and power dependent, the stronger and taller one was the easier. I found the crux technical (no heel hook, just a far left high foot to balance out the directionality of the flake.) Our shorter mate really had to work harder, and our taller strong friend just pulled past the BS. I thought the move was a little harder than a .10c/d. That's the grade I might have gave it as I think I feel weak as shit. But watching my mate on it, I think my trickery was solid hence .11ab is my centerist grade. Jun 24, 2019

[Hide Comment] Man, I wish this climb was longer! The rock felt great, it's an interesting line, and I LOVE the massive move to the crimps up high. Could have gone for 30 more feet of this! Oct 29, 2019

[Hide Comment] I found this route easier than "Mighty Mouse" to the left. Maybe I lucked out with good beta on this one (heel hook was great) and completely botched the Mighty Mouse. But... my partner felt similarly about the relative difficulties. If you had told me this was the 10c and Mighty Mouse the 11b I would have believed you. Jul 11, 2021