Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 650 total · 41/month
Shared By: MariaZ on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

A rare moderate sport route in Woodson.

We found this route entirely by chance (and definitely were not the bolt setters or first ascentists). The Kennedy Book alludes to a face here but does not indicate it was bolted. The 5.10 rating also comes from the topo provided in a photo. It felt like a 5.10a to me.

The first bolt is easy to clip one move off of the standing flake. The crux comes after the second bolt where microedging, faith, and a lack of hands gets you to the third bolt. Past that you are golden and the slab flattens. Fourth bolt is a breeze.

Walk off on climbers right.

Location

Right off the road on the left after passing Hamburger crack and before poison oak crack/big grunt. You'll see the bolts.

Protection

4 quickdraws for the lead. Two bolt anchor at the top. Walk off. Well protected

Photos

Trad Princess
Not That Into Climbing
Trad Princess   Not That Into Climbing
These bolts will likely not last long, they were chopped before. There's been discussion on other forums about this already. Apparently this was a climb without bolts since way back. Aug 31, 2017
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
  5.15d X
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
  5.15d X
I could use a few hangers ;) Sep 6, 2017
Trad Princess
Not That Into Climbing
Trad Princess   Not That Into Climbing
Lou, go gettim. My understanding is that when the last bolts were pulled, they were the wrong size/done incorrectly/done unsafely. I'm not a bolting expert, have to rely on the photos and testimonial of the chap that chopped them. If it's the same bozos that did round 1...be mindful that they aren't necessarily in the rock in a legit manner. Sep 8, 2017
You cannot walk up to this route. There is a walk-off the back, but that does not mean you can walk up behind and place your top rope, so this is not a top rope route, only a sport route. Please remove the TR designation. BTW, the walk off is sketchy and you can only come down, not go up. Feb 26, 2018