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Routes in Poison Oak Boulder Area

5.10 Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Airplane Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Atom Ant TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bad Boys from Detroit TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Grunt TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Squeak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blasted Rock 3 - Center V5 6C
Blue Collar V1 5
Cast of a Thousand Stones TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cool Jerk S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Deport Jonny (aka Jonny Go Home) TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deport Jonny Forever TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Scoop TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elsa's Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eppy Birthday TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fade to Black TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Go With The Flow TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Golden Medallion V2 5+
Hairdo S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hamburger Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
High on the Hog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Hollywood Shot T A3
Laker Girls TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Laying Down On The Job T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left of the Tree 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V0+ 4+
Monkey Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poison Oak Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right of the Tree 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0- 4-
Skid Row V3 6A
Slap You Silly TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Starving In Stereo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Welcome to Rubidoux TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Werner's Wish TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 532 total · 54/month
Shared By: MariaZ on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A rare moderate sport route in Woodson.

We found this route entirely by chance (and definitely were not the bolt setters or first ascentists). The Kennedy Book alludes to a face here but does not indicate it was bolted. The 5.10 rating also comes from the topo provided in a photo. It felt like a 5.10a to me.

The first bolt is easy to clip one move off of the standing flake. The crux comes after the second bolt where microedging, faith, and a lack of hands gets you to the third bolt. Past that you are golden and the slab flattens. Fourth bolt is a breeze.

Walk off on climbers right.

Location [Suggest Change]

Right off the road on the left after passing Hamburger crack and before poison oak crack/big grunt. You'll see the bolts.

Protection [Suggest Change]

4 quickdraws for the lead. Two bolt anchor at the top. Walk off. Well protected

Photos

These bolts will likely not last long, they were chopped before. There's been discussion on other forums about this already. Apparently this was a climb without bolts since way back. Aug 31, 2017
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
  5.15d X
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
  5.15d X
I could use a few hangers ;) Sep 6, 2017
Lou, go gettim. My understanding is that when the last bolts were pulled, they were the wrong size/done incorrectly/done unsafely. I'm not a bolting expert, have to rely on the photos and testimonial of the chap that chopped them. If it's the same bozos that did round 1...be mindful that they aren't necessarily in the rock in a legit manner. Sep 8, 2017
You cannot walk up to this route. There is a walk-off the back, but that does not mean you can walk up behind and place your top rope, so this is not a top rope route, only a sport route. Please remove the TR designation. BTW, the walk off is sketchy and you can only come down, not go up. Feb 26, 2018

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