Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Jake Croft
Page Views: 64 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jake Croft on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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The first time I checked out gollum's roof I naively walked straight into it with outstretched hands and a cloud of flies erupted into my face. Swearing, I closed my eyes and stumbled out from under the roof. I looked back up to see a large cloud of flies, threatening to be present and unpleasant if I returned. I grabbed my stuff and left, writing off the roof as not worth it. They say the best alpinists have to worst memory. I may make a good alpinist after all because I did end up returning eventually, thinking it probably wasn't that bad. Luckily it turned out that it's only some parts of the year that the cave is filled with flies, and the problem was fly free.

As a wise man once said when asked if the supporting boulder was on for feet, "Do we boulder or do we boulders?"

This is the version of Gollum's roof that doesn't use the supporting boulder for feet or the suspended boulder for the top out. Start with the same right hand undercling and left hand blocky hold, but paste your feet up high and climb the same line as gollum's. The lack of feet put a lot more tension on your fingers. When you reach the good flat jug above the lip, instead of using the suspended boulder to the right to assist in mantling (I believe this is how people do Gollum's?) move left through a flat rail. The landing is kinda sketch for this part, so be careful. Eventually you can swing your feet over to a blobby protrusion left of the roof (This is not the supporting boulder but if you look closely a weird blobby part of the roof boulder sticking out). Top out straight up from here. Hopefully you cleaned the leaves off the top out holds before getting here.


Gollum's roof, supporting boulder and suspended boulder are off


Pads, spots, flyswatter


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