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Routes in Winkler Tower

Winkler Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Winkler 1887
Page Views: 85 total · 7/month
Shared By: Michael Butts on Aug 24, 2017
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

Pitches 1-2 are as for normal route. Pretty ease low 5 th class scrambling.
P3 is a long traverse pitch 40 m or so heading right wards and slightly down to reach the large yellow crack which gives the route its name. A cemented ring for the belay.
P4 5.6-5.7 Climb the wall just right of the crack then move back left into the crack and climb to a bulge. Pull though this and continue to a ledge. Alternatively, follow holds right to avoid the bulge then cut back left and climb a short chimney to the belay. You will pass an intermediate belay. Keep climbing 20 m to the belay.
P5 Pull cool chimney moves on the left for a few meters then climb easier ground to the belay 35 m
P6 Continue up a small saddle and easy ground to the left to a stance.
P7 climb crack then continue up shattered rock to a ledge below the summit(abseil point). Easy climbing for 10 meters to the true summit. You will have to traverse back to cement ring for descent.

Location

From Rifugio Re Alberto , follow the well worn path towards the towers to reach a ledge above a low gully at the base of the towers.

Make a 20 m abseil to the small ledge below the summit then abseil 25 m to the large ledge leading west( left when looking down) It has two large cairns on it. Follow this across the north face or 50 m to a cemented ring then make 3 more 25 m abseils between the two towers. to reach the base of the gully. Down climb easily to the base.

Protection

Mostly long runners with a few nuts or small cams to supplement the pitches

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