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Lonesome Buffalo

5.8, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 106 votes
FA: Chris Smith
New Hampshire > Rumney > Buffalo Pit

Description

This is a really fun, long adventure over slabs and cracks and in to the unknown.

There are a couple of tricky spots but for the most part it is very easy climbing that is just plain pleasant. The hardest moves for sure are about 15-20 feet off the ground while your belayer can still see you well. There is a very nice view from a comfortable perch at the anchor.

This could be a great practice trad route. Place gear in the abundant cracks and clip bolts when you want them.

Location

To the right of the obvious cave look for a clean swath of rock with cracks in it. You can't see the full length of the route from the ground.

Protection

9 Bolts to Pigtail anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Another Rumney classic!
[Hide Photo] Another Rumney classic!
This is a good routeto practice placing gear on. There is always a bolt near by just in case.
[Hide Photo] This is a good routeto practice placing gear on. There is always a bolt near by just in case.
Torie about half way up
[Hide Photo] Torie about half way up
tech tip. climb a tree to avoid the butt shot ;)
[Hide Photo] tech tip. climb a tree to avoid the butt shot ;)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alan Emery
Lebanon, NH
 
[Hide Comment] On the ledge with the birch trees, in a bowl where the lichen is thick to the left of the crack, I found some excellent cracks, very solid. This may add a + to the 8, but well worth it. I'll try to get back there soon and clean up where I am talking about.

There are many ways to climb this route if you use your imagination! Sep 16, 2017
Mark NH
03053
[Hide Comment] Are you talking about wanting to squeeze in a route or just some couple move variation? There was some chalk out left in the lichen between the second and third bolts today. Is that where you're describing (as that's the birch tree ledge)? If you're wanting to clean that lichen for a couple move variation I'd just leave things be. Plus the existing bolts would then be way to the right. If you're putting up a completely separate route go for it! Sep 18, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I think he was saying there were a few solutions to the existing route. Which is true, I've done it with a few different sets of beta. Sep 19, 2017
Calvin Coffin
Concord, MA
 
[Hide Comment] Better as a trad lead, imo Mar 27, 2018
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
[Hide Comment] Felt a bit hard, but I think I was left when I should have been right, and right when I should have been left. Lot's of great climbing though. Jun 2, 2018
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
[Hide Comment] A terrific route. Four stars. Aug 24, 2018
Matt D
[Hide Comment] is this really 100'? is it possible to be lowered/rapel on a 60m rope? Aug 19, 2019
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.8
[Hide Comment] It’s about 100 feet. Those are estimates but yes it’s about and yes a 60m gets you down. Make sure you have a knot in the end though ;) Aug 19, 2019