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Mr. Buffoolo To You

5.4, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 70 votes
FA: Mark Sprague 9/16
New Hampshire > Rumney > Buffalo Pit

Description

This will surely be a classic first lead.
A bit of a move gets you off the ground then you pick your way pleasantly through a series of steps to another bit of a move around the left side of a small birch tree. Mantle on to the large comfortable ledge and clip the anchor.

This line climbs up and left setting you up perfectly for a top rope on the 5.10s on the left. Cleaning on the lower can be tricky if you are newer to leading. Might be a good plan to have the last person to climb it follow the line and clean it along the way.

Location

The second bolt line from the right that starts from ground level, maybe 30 feet right of the rt facing corner of Rainy Day - There is a nice big flat stone at the base

Protection

4 bolts to ram horn (pig tail) anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climb follows the weakness to the left fun easy moves
[Hide Photo] Climb follows the weakness to the left fun easy moves
Jaelynn on her first outdoor lead.
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Photo: Torie Kidd
[Hide Photo] Jaelynn on her first outdoor lead. Photo: Torie Kidd
"Mr. Buffoolo To You" goes up the middle of the photo and then trends left. We went left around the thin twin trees at the top. Lots of nice holds!
[Hide Photo] "Mr. Buffoolo To You" goes up the middle of the photo and then trends left. We went left around the thin twin trees at the top. Lots of nice holds!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
[Hide Comment] Easy but not obvious climbing for a 5.4. If this feels hard at the start, you're probably making it harder than it needs to be. Jun 24, 2018
dragons
New Paltz, NY
  5.3
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, thanks! I gave it a 5.3 because it seemed easier than Mom's Pancake (which is a 5.4 in Ward Smith's book) - mountainproject.com/route/1… JMHO Apr 17, 2019