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Routes in The Breaks

Dozer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Give Me a Break T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Summit Fever T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summit Fever Direct Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: T. Bubb, Z. Voldman, 8/2017
Page Views: 58 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 23, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

A short route, but since the main feature is 2-meter-long roof, I suppose the rest doesn't really matter anyway. That's the challenging part and what you've come for.
This climb ascends the splitter roof to a surprisingly difficult/insecure sequence to turn the lip.
Difficulty will be hand-size dependent. Those with larger hands will find it easier, as the crux is blue-camamlot sized.
If someone is going to hang-dog on follow/TR, then a large hex set in the lip of the roof crack end-to-end would make a great bearing to keep the rope out, since the roof tops out onto the shelf and requires setting the anchor back away from the edge.

Location

Way down left, on the left breaks, on the lowest tiers of rock, perhaps 100m from the left end, a few large Boulders at the base sit just below a large roof, 30' up the rock. Rack up a few pieces of gear in the hands to wide hand size, and a few more wide hands to fist for the anchor up top. A nice flake for feet gets you started in the roof, and a nice edge out to the right helps you get out and over it, and meanwhile, there is a full body-length of roof to jam and enjoy. It is solid rock and well protected.

Protection

A few cams from 2.5-3.5" with extras for the anchor and maybe a 4" piece. I set the anchor on 2x blue camalots.

Photos

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