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Routes in Road Side Rock

Allergic Reaction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Aqualine S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Banks Marathon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brown Out S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calanques S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Carrot Top S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Danton T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Downtown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Even Better Than the Real Thing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fin de Siecle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flower Power S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hello Dalai S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kurosawa S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Land of a Thousand Stances S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Playing God S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prophylactic Crowbar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rashomon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Alert S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Roof Inn S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reflecting Depths Imbibe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Renaldo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Robespierre (aka Red Bull) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rolling Blackout S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seven Samurai S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Circuit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Supprehension S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tom Thumbs Blues S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Washington Pass S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whatever it Costs you S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young Lions S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 82 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris Doll on Aug 23, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

P1: 5.8 Starts off on the left side of a large flake and traverses right and up on dirty rock before going up a small diehedral to a set of anchor bolts. Watch for rope drag.

P2: 5.8 Move left a couple feet from the anchors to a dirty diehedral with a hand to fingers crack. Finishes up with a move right that takes you out of the diehedral to easy terrain and a set of chains.

Location [Suggest Change]

About 50 feet left of Aqualine there is a grassy and rocky ramp that goes left. Hike almost to the top of the ramp and you will see a large flake behind a bush with a couple bolts on it. Follow the bolt line up and left. Once on top of the flake there are three variations of the route. Take the right most bolt line.

Protection [Suggest Change]

P1: Bolts plus gear to 1" with bolted anchor
P2: Bolts plus gear to 2" with anchor chains

Photos

Kyle McCrohan
  5.8+
Kyle McCrohan  
  5.8+
We followed the guidebook's instructions to rap in, but I definitely do not recommend that. Midway anchors are not super easy to find, and our rope got snagged on the second rappel and necessitated about 50ft of free soloing up to 5.7 to get the rope unstuck. It's definitely easier to climb Supprehsion or Aqualine as an approach. If you are really intent on rappelling in, I would recommend rapping from the right of the two top anchors on Danton (as seen facing the lake) straight down, which should take you quickly to an intermediate anchor as you go over a huge overhung dihedral (Lafeyette Arete anchors?), which from you can rap down to a terrace and scramble down to the start of Danton.

We didn't actually climb the first pitch of Danton, ended up on Tom Paine Variation (10a/b, cruxy overhung finger crack in a dihedral) because of the rope getting stuck and we didn't traverse far enough right. Second pitch of Danton is bomber though, has a toughish flaring hand crack crux to start. Gear is surprisingly good throughout. Apr 21, 2018

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