Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m), 5 pitches
FA: Murley, Musser, Vielbig, 1961
Page Views: 1,254 total · 24/month
Shared By: Ryan Marsters on Aug 23, 2017
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details


Due to loose rock, this route is best in spring or early summer.

Gain the ridge around 7500 ft after 2-3 hours of glacier travel. Head up the ridge via moderate snow bypassing a pinnacle on right.

Junky towers and bergschrunds ahead - bypass them left/east via low-moderate angle ramps within the icefall. Choose whichever is least interrupted by crevasses.

Regain the ridge prior to Cockscomb. This section has insanely loose and sketchy rock in the wrong season. Pass Cockscomb on left via steep snow. Later in the season, one may have to descend to the Park Glacier and climb the headwall (AI3, several screws).

Follow the snow/glacier ridge up to the summit.

Descend Coleman-Deming (easy-moderate glacier).


This is the true north ridge of Baker whereas the classic North Ridge is actually the NW spur. Access from Heliotrope by crossing the Coleman and Roosevelt glaciers and taking low to moderate snow to the ridge around 7500 ft elevation. Alternate starts are possible.


Few screws and pickets. Glacier gear.