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Routes in August Canyon

Doug's Dandy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Presumably someone named Doug?
Page Views: 99 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jonathan Croom on Aug 22, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Start up a third class ramp on solid granite, and appreciate the good rock while you're on it. Just below the ledge is a small overhang/bulge with a bolt. Pull the bulge or aid through on the bolt (there was an aid sling in place when I did it) to the ledge. Go left behind the saguaro to a bolt just below an overhang, then pull another crux bulge, again with another bolt within reach. Go up and left past a couple more bolts on low angle crumbly rock. There is a final two bolt anchor left of the large 'summit block'. The route doesn't actually go to the top of the formation. The final bolts have painted hangers, and are hard to see.

Scramble over to Pedrick's Chimney to rap.

Alternative finish, for those who like crumbly, unprotected climbing:
I went strait up in a shallow dihedral, skipping the last bolt before the anchors. The way I went might take a couple pieces of gear right at the top. There area couple small palo verdes on top. Rap or downclimb 20' on the back, then scramble up over the head summit to Pedrick's Chimney rappel.

It was very difficult to tell how the route was intended to be pitched out. The opportunities for anchors are in horizontal cracks under the bulges. The climbing is wandering, but with such little protection rope drag might not be very bad.

Location

Located about halfway up August Canyon on the west facing aspect (climbers left). Look for a saguaro on a ledge, with a third class ramp below.

Protection

Several bolts, plus a two bolt anchor at the top. Bring a couple hand sized pieces to belay in horizontals under the bulges. Gear is only needed for mid route belay anchors, not for protecting the pitches.

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