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Routes in 1. Main Slab

Edge, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Harvest Moon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
O-Town Browns T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polish the Monkey (mid-cliff START) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seven Dwarfs, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Shine Your Helmet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0-1
Somebody's Got to Do It T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yet to Be Named T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jim Graham
Page Views: 298 total · 20/month
Shared By: Ralph Weissleder on Aug 22, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Originally rated 5.5 in the 1986 (2nd ed.) Webster guide; the whole cliff was omitted from his 3rd edition (1996).  Classic example of "Old School" ratings. Most today give it between "solid 5.7+" and 5.8.  

START: About 20-25 ft right of the "twin birch trees" of the "Somebody's Got to Do It" corner.  

P1 -  Climb up mossy dike line, stepping back left  (5.6R?) to first bolt;  then up the short crack (#3 Camalot useful) passing a tree root.  Up, then reach left to clip the first bolt (which I think is actually on Harvest Moon), make a move up the corner, then a big step left onto the face. Head up the face, there's at least 1 more bolt. Continue a few feet beyond the pine tree to a 2 ring anchor.  110ft, 5.7+ / 5.8,   5.6R   

P2-   Climb up to the overhang on the right, with the flake and crack, over this (gear) to a bolt.  Up the face (gear and 1-2 more bolts) trending left to a 2 bolt anchor.  80 ft 5.7  [see NOTE] 

Webster (1986) lists a P3:  150 ft  5.3 that appears to not be very clean at present (2018) "Wander up broken slabs to a short headwall and left facing corner." 

NOTE:  From the P1 belay, stepping left and going up the clean, white face with several bolts is P2 of Harvest Moon, 5.10a, to the same shared anchor with Seven Dwarves.

Protection

Std Rack,  4 bolts. Crack takes #3 cam that can be "walked up", although a #2 could be placed.

Photos

chinos
  5.7 PG13
chinos  
  5.7 PG13
Start 15’ right of the double birch trees. Originally rated 5.5 in Webster’ s, I found it a bit harder.

P1: Climb the dike to a high first bolt. Gain a stance and crack that takes good larger gear. Follow the crack to a slab. Step left onto good rails to a bolt. Continue up the arête with occasional gear to a bolted anchor. 90’ 5.7

P2: Move up and right to gain a large flake at the overlap. Pull the overlap to a bolt. Continue up to a large flake. Step left and follow the featured slab to a shared ring anchor with Harvest Moon. 65’ 5.7 Sep 30, 2017
DavidLG
  5.7+ PG13
DavidLG  
  5.7+ PG13
The climb is very nice with a strong commitment to gain the 1st bolt on the 1st pitch. I find the 1st pitch 5.6 much harder than the second pitch 5.7. I believe the 2nd pitch is accurately rated and the rating on the 1st pitch should be revisited. Oct 4, 2017
mark meany
Harrisville, NH
  5.7 PG13
mark meany   Harrisville, NH
  5.7 PG13
I would concur with the 5.7 rating for both pitches. May 27, 2018

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