Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Lee Hansche
Page Views: 447 total · 22/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 21, 2017
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Night Songs is named for the 80's hair metal classic Cinderella album and song. As well as the fact that I may... or may not... have bolted it in the dead of night. It's a crimpy little thing with a fairly sequency nature.

Stick Clip the first bolt, or scramble on to a convenient boulder to the right and clip it from there. The climb can be started off of the boulder but you would miss about 8 feet of fun movement down low. So start down and left and climb up at a slight left leaning angle rapidly deciphering the puzzle of hand and foot movements before you pump out.

I don't think there is too distinct of a crux but I can say, once you clip the last bolt it should be smoother sailing to the top.

Location

The rightmost climb on the West Wall.

Protection

4 bolts to ram horn anchors.

Photos

Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
If you are a taller person you can manually clip the first bolt while standing on the flake of rock leaning against the cliff face to the right of the start. I found this climb interesting and something worth working towards the redpoint for. I hang-dogged my way up it. May 29, 2018
Ming
  5.10b
Ming  
  5.10b
It's like the complete opposite of Mighty Mouse - small pretty intricate movement will get your far. More technical and less bouldery. Aug 13, 2018
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
A very worthwhile route, Lee. I say it's the king line of the small wall! Dry rock, tricky movement, and it's longer and sunnier than the other small wall routes. The first half is definitely more difficult than the second half Aug 20, 2018