Mountain Project Logo

Foreplay

5.11b, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Dennis Luther, Dave Szot, Joe Szot, Tom Yandon-June '92
New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champla… > Poke-O-Moonshine > Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine closures and approach trail issues DetailsDrop down

Description

A good route that is a bit adventurous with a tricky crux. It is an excellent way to access the pillar pitch of It Don't Come Easy. It's a bit dirty, but the hard sections are clean enough. Climb into the right facing corner with two pins and continue to a stance in the dike rock. Work up and left to a stance below the first bolt. It is a difficult clip, but there is a good small cam placement right below it. Weave your way up past another bolt (crux) to a bomber two bolt anchor at the base of the pillar.

Location

Right side of The Big Wall below a right facing corner with two pins.

Protection

gear to 3", RPs and small cams useful

The pins can be backed up with gear.