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Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust
5.10c,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 1.5 from 6
votes
FA: Old School
California
> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Tahquitz Rock
> (g) W Face
> W Face - Left Side
Description
Spiders From Mars is a great hidden gem, some wild balancey moves mixed in with some jug hauling roof action and finishes with a nice finger to hands crack.
Start from Pine Tree Ledge and traverse over and on top of the downward facing flake, its a little gritty but the moves are cool. Get to the rusty pins and a great stance then head up over the next overlap on fabulous jugs to a few finger crack moves. Some laybacking gets you up and then at the very end step right to ride the blunt arete.
Good gear, good moves, excellent position.
Ziggy Stardust and Lower Royals go under the downward facing flake, which I don't recommend because of loose flaky rock and so-so gear. Ziggy pulls the roof under the pins while Royals traverses left and around the corner past two pins with some red cord on them.
Location
Big roof left of The Trough, even with Pine Tree ledge.
Protection
All kinds.
[Hide Photo] Fiddling with gear, aka stalling, at the start of the pitch. July 1998.
[Hide Photo] Picture taken on 11/28/2021. Be Careful!
I should also note that the lone bolt on The Passover is a homemade aluminum hanger with a 1/4 bolt, shit! The two bolts on Chin Strap are also rusty junk. Avoid! Aug 20, 2017