Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 221 total · 9/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Aug 20, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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I climbed this thinking this might have been Bushy Buffoonery, but doesn't really match the vividly drawn topo in Toula's book. Whatever it is, this crack has decent rock quality and not much harder than 5.7 which is unique for the area.

Rap to the right of Book of Wasps down a dark brown gulley. I started the pitch from the first good ledge with a bush. Apparently BB would have started from the bottom of the canyon.

Face climb and stem around a fairly wide crack. #4C4, or equiv. Follow this crack system to good hand jamming for the rest of the way.


Just climbers right of Carnwennan


Mostly hands with some wide pieces. Bolt anchor at top of Carnwennan can be used for top belay.