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Routes in The Middle Ages

Arbalest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bertilak T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Book of Wasps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge of an Age T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gnarnian Renaissance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Green Knight T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy in the Gulley T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Morning Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trebuchet T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Turn the Page T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Handed Flail T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
White Hawk T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 93 total · 15/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Aug 20, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

I climbed this thinking this might have been Bushy Buffoonery, but I doubt it is according to the vividly drawn topo in Toula's book. Whatever it is, this crack has decent rock quality and not much harder than 5.7 which is unique for the area.

Rap to the right of Book of Wasps down a dark brown gulley. I started the pitch from the first good ledge with a bush. Apparently BB would have started from the bottom of the canyon.

Face climb and stem around a fairly wide crack. #4C4, or equiv. Follow this crack system to good hand jamming for the rest of the way.

Location

Just climbers right of Book of Wasps.

Protection

Mostly hands with some wide pieces. Fallen tree can be used as top belay. Belay anchor takes variety of gear.

Photos

It's good that you explored some easier terrain and posted this here, I think more routes at a greater range of grades can be a good thing. Sep 2, 2017

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