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> N Buttress
The Full On Father
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
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Routes in North Buttress
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Full On Father, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Evan Mathews, Tony Chang (August 2017) |
| Page Views: | 1,092 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 18, 2017 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
"Back in the day, when I went alpine climbing I had to hike uphill both ways!" -Dad
The Full On Father takes the best looking line up North Buttress and is just as adventurous as the name suggests. This route was bolted on lead from free stances onsight without hangs or falls so some spice is to be expected but through generally great rock quality.
Pitch 1, 5.7
Start about 30ft uphill from the very tip of the toe of the buttress, just to the right of an obvious crack system. Follow cool crack features on awesome rock placing gear to a shallow break capped by a short overlap. Move to the right side of the break to a bolt just over the overlap. Move past another bolt over the overlap and follow cracks and grooves up and right to a ledge staying right of the tress to a bolt belay. Runner things well.
Pitch 2, 5.10
Move just up and left from the belay and follow broken cracks with gear to a bolt heading up and right towards a large left facing feature. After a #4 placement, move up and right around the feature and onto the face to a bolt. From here follow ever distancing bolts through good rock and climbing to a ledge. Traverse right across the ledge to two more bolts before pulling onto another ledge. Follow easy, but slightly loose ground straight up to an obvious tree belay. Runner things well, takes almost an entire 70m line!
Move the belay about 60 feet right, traversing a small ledge system to a nice flat little belay space just above some small trees. It's nice to stay roped up for this.
Pitch 3, 5.6
Climb the obvious easy wide corner and pull up into a small 4th class chute. You can climb a pre-existing bolt line, following large cracks and grooves (looks to be 5.6ish, not sure of the anchor situation up top) straight up to the summit or continue up the short 4th class chute and around a small rise to a bolted belay below the last pitch of The Full On Father.
Pitch 4, 5.8
Climb up awesome rock following a crack that quickly narrows to a seam, passing bolts and staying to the right of a small shrub. Follow broken cracks and a bolt with ever easing difficulty to the summit. Keep an eye out for loose rock near the top. Bolt belay.
To descend, see the descent beta listed on the North Buttress page.
The Full On Father takes the best looking line up North Buttress and is just as adventurous as the name suggests. This route was bolted on lead from free stances onsight without hangs or falls so some spice is to be expected but through generally great rock quality.
Pitch 1, 5.7
Start about 30ft uphill from the very tip of the toe of the buttress, just to the right of an obvious crack system. Follow cool crack features on awesome rock placing gear to a shallow break capped by a short overlap. Move to the right side of the break to a bolt just over the overlap. Move past another bolt over the overlap and follow cracks and grooves up and right to a ledge staying right of the tress to a bolt belay. Runner things well.
Pitch 2, 5.10
Move just up and left from the belay and follow broken cracks with gear to a bolt heading up and right towards a large left facing feature. After a #4 placement, move up and right around the feature and onto the face to a bolt. From here follow ever distancing bolts through good rock and climbing to a ledge. Traverse right across the ledge to two more bolts before pulling onto another ledge. Follow easy, but slightly loose ground straight up to an obvious tree belay. Runner things well, takes almost an entire 70m line!
Move the belay about 60 feet right, traversing a small ledge system to a nice flat little belay space just above some small trees. It's nice to stay roped up for this.
Pitch 3, 5.6
Climb the obvious easy wide corner and pull up into a small 4th class chute. You can climb a pre-existing bolt line, following large cracks and grooves (looks to be 5.6ish, not sure of the anchor situation up top) straight up to the summit or continue up the short 4th class chute and around a small rise to a bolted belay below the last pitch of The Full On Father.
Pitch 4, 5.8
Climb up awesome rock following a crack that quickly narrows to a seam, passing bolts and staying to the right of a small shrub. Follow broken cracks and a bolt with ever easing difficulty to the summit. Keep an eye out for loose rock near the top. Bolt belay.
To descend, see the descent beta listed on the North Buttress page.
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