Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Avery Tichner, Summer 1985
Page Views: 115 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 18, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

Scramble to the top of the mossy ledge about 10' up shared with Fall Guy. Step left and climb delicate edges with no pro to a heads-up move before you clip the first bolt - a rusty 3/8" bolt with a homemade hanger! Despite the Tim Olson topo, this is the only fixed pro on the route. Make strenuous moves up the inside of this stemming feature, using occasional finger locks and good edges for feet. The first gear placement comes far above the first bolt, don't blow it! A thoughtful, core-intensive crux move hits you before the angle drops and you can make tenuous moves through the now-clean but still somewhat spooky upper ledges to the anchor.

Location

Just left of the tunnel #1, straight off the top of the mossy mini-pillar

Protection

One old bolt, lots of small nuts and a few small cams

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11- X
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11- X
This route makes for a great top-rope after leading Blownout Direct. Oct 10, 2017
What's with the PC label? There used to be a fixed pin about 20 feet below the anchor. Even so, the lead is closer to X than R. Sep 12, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11- X
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11- X
Not sure where the pin used to be but it's not there any more. There are opportunities for small placements throughout, but the most precarious section is probably down low, before reaching the manky first bolt. A fall here would be X-rated, for sure.

The original name was heinous. It's not about political correctness; it's about not being an insensitive jerk-off. Sep 12, 2018