Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Adam Sultan
Page Views: 405 total · 25/month
Shared By: Adam Sultan on Aug 17, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Quite possibly the best sport line in the Inner Walls and the only multi-pitch in the area as of August 2017. After eyeing this line from the ground for nearly 4 years, I managed to squeeze in putting this beauty up before moving away. Skip the paragraph below if you don't want any beta.

BETA: Begin on moderate climbing on blocky holds trending rightwards to a bomber heel hook below the 2nd bolt. After clipping the 3rd bolt, throw out right to a big pinch and then up to a small 3 finger crimp. Match the good horizontal hold at bolt 4 and throw right to a small side pull, then out left to the arete where a jug resides. Rest up on the big jug below the roof and then a hard sequence with an undercling in a horizontal crack out right to the arete. Enjoy the last good rest at the base of the twin cracks and gear up for the pumpy finish. After pulling up onto the sloppy ledge at bolt 9, save some energy in the tank for the "heartbreaker" crux. Using compression, liebacking and finger locks will put you at the hero jug out left. Top out and take in an interesting view of the inner walls.

5.11 is not my intended grade because my intent is to leave this route is ungraded. I expect the final grade will be between 5.11b-5.12b and will update the grade after sufficient consensus.

Location

Climb either Humpback Humpback Humpback Whale, Foodbar, or Sucker Punch (from easiest to hardest) to access.

Protection

10 Bolts, leave your rack at the belay. Bolted Anchor. Two 30m rappels to the ground.

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