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Avg: 2.2 from 6
> Wasatch Range
> Little Cottonwo…
> Gate Buttress
> E Gate Buttress
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pretty good route. The first pitch consists of a short offwidth, then a traverse onto a nice handcrack. Follow the handcrack up, then traverse right under a roof to nice holds. Belay a little past the trees using natural anchors. The second pitch is excellent, but short. Belay at the anchors for Snowflake and Plasma.
This route starts just to the right of bloodline and traverses quite a ways right. Rap from Snowflake and Plasma anchors.