PRINT: Rock Climb Eye of Providence, Bugaboos

Eye of Providence

5.12-, Trad, Alpine, 3000 ft (909 m), 34 pitches, Grade VI,

Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Mike Verwey and Jon Simms, 2012
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia-Shushwap > Bugaboos > Howser Towers > N Howser Tower

Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL Details

BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.

Description

A great four pitch variation to All Along The Watchtower. The climbing is wild, exposed, and navigates between many steep cracks with sections of face climbing.

Location

The route follows the next dihedral system climber's left of Watchtower. Follow Watchtower until below the start of the dihedral pitches. Continue along the ledge system climber's left and start up a chimney pitch off a large bivy ledge. Rejoin Watchtower to the summit after exiting the dihedral with a roof traverse left.

Protection

Double rack to #3. 1-2 #4.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up at the corner splitter and roof traverse left, which exits the dihedral.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Where's Walden

5.12-

Route goes DIRECTLY above the large Bivy Ledge with corner/chimney then leading into broken cracks on the left face. Would expect it to dry out faster than Watchtower. Crux pitch was a bit lichenous. Nov 20, 2017