Trad, 100 ft,
Avg: 3.7 from 3
FA: Gary Allen, Patrick Munn 8/91
> A: Lake Champla…
> Poke-O-Moonshine Main…
Peregrine closures and approach trail issues
Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
An excellent, challenging route comprised of face climbing and stemming on mostly thin holds. Scramble up the slope to the base of a chimney in the dike. Climb the chimney to a stance out right. Climb up on positive holds to the high first bolt. Continue up the corner and eventually the arête and face out left to the anchor. Rap with a single 60m rope.
At the height of land shortly after taking the right fork of the approach trail. Left of The Snatch and The Great Dihedral.
9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
optional gear for the chimney
Nancy in the dihedral