Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 92 total · 5/month
Shared By: Graham O. on Aug 16, 2017
Admins: Michael Sullivan

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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In terms of aesthetics, rock quality, and movement, bouldering doesn't get any better than this; one of the very best rock climbs in the world. It is essentially broken into three parts: a fun v4 to the undercling, a v6/7 burly compression problem to the "ear" crimp, and two hard and committing v9 moves to the top. Sit/crouch start on the obvious jug, and make a few v3-ish compression moves to get to a nice sloping pinch with your left hand. Reach around the arete to a crimp or a jug if you can extend that far. Come into a good undercling, and you have finished section one. Use a heelhook and slap to the large, flat, sidepull rail on the other side of the arete. Get a very high foot and come into the arete with your right hand. Get a small sidepull before gaining the ticked "ear" crimp, and you have completed section two. Get a good shake, and use a miserable intermediate to gain a left hand crimp. Now make what most would call the hardest move, a very committing jump to a flat sloper. Snag the lip, top out, and celebrate.

A stand start also goes at v8, but I personally don't think it's much (if any) easier. This is truly a world class boulder problem, so whether you climb v0 or v13, you should never pass up a chance to get on this climb.


The obvious arete facing the trail. Sit start on the lowest chalked-up jug, and climb straight up the arete. Scramble off the back.


Many pads and spotters. The landing is flat, but the problem is very tall and has its hardest moves at the top.