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Routes in 3. Saddle Up Wall

Aquarius S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Honor and Glory S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
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Type: Sport
FA: Evan Hau
Page Views: 183 total · 20/month
Shared By: Tom Gnyra on Aug 16, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description [Edit]

A V10 crux off the deck leads into more hard climbing. Evan has been working on this for a couple years now and I'm amazed he pulled it off! Congrats!

instagram.com/p/BUYFx01g7nL…

From Sendage:

"Can't believe it's done!!! What an incredible journey! After chasing this grade for years I knew the only way I could get it done was to find and bolt one at home in The Bow Valley, Canada. It took many trips to Europe to try various routes of this grade and understand what I was looking for. At last I was able to find a completely independent line at the perfect difficulty at a cliff I already frequented anyway! I started bolting this route 16 months ago last April and tried to get on it as much as possible since then, pretty much 12 out of the last 16 month it's been climbable. In the cold, in the hot, wet, whatever. Today was incredible. Amazing conditions, I felt tired on the warmup so I didn't really think I had a shot, but maybe that took some of the pressure off. I passed my highpoint and then I didn't fall off the final move like I thought I would. STOKED!! About the grade: I reckon it's a 15m 9a to a mediocre rest followed by 30m of pumpy 8c climbing ending in a huge roof. It feels on par with the few 9a+s I've tried in Europe and definitely harder than any 9a I've been on so I'm going with 9a+. This is my first of the grade and a lifetime goal for sure."

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