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Routes in The Dewerstone

Central Groove T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: C. Simpson 1949
Page Views: 12 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jamie Sookprasong on Aug 15, 2017
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description

British Trad Grade: HS 4b

P1) 5.6, 28m
Climb the polished crack/jugs up to the ledge at the base of the corner system. Stem and jam your way up the corner until you are a little below the block with the obvious metal bolt running through it (can be seen from the ground). From here, work your way onto the face and traverse over and up to the block where you should make your anchor. Standing belay.

P2) 5.7, 20m
Follow the chalked holds up to a ledge. Move right until you reach a thin crack that leads to the top. Layback and finger-lock your way to the spacious top.

Location

Look for the obvious corner (left of centre) on the main face.

Steep walk off down back - carry up your approach shoes. Alternatively rap down off one of the large trees at the top

Protection

Well protected throughout, although P1 protects better than P2.

Standing belay on a small ledge next to the block (can be slung) that has a metal rod running through it to keep it attached to the rock face.

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