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> W Face
Letterbox / Hangover
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in West Face
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Aramis T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bulging Wall T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Letterbox / Hangover T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Zig Zag T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 551 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Jamie Sookprasong on Aug 15, 2017 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Jack Copland |
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Description
British Trad Grade: E1 5b
Start with both hands on a good ledge about head height. Gain the ledge then make delicate moves out left to gain the jug at the bottom of the angled crack about 20ft off the ground (first crux). Here you can place your first piece of protection (small cam)
Climb up to the main break and get a good rest before tackling a series of flakes (the first and largest of which can be slung) leading to a difficult move (second crux) to get over the final bulge.
From here the climbing is relatively easy until the finish on top.
Start with both hands on a good ledge about head height. Gain the ledge then make delicate moves out left to gain the jug at the bottom of the angled crack about 20ft off the ground (first crux). Here you can place your first piece of protection (small cam)
Climb up to the main break and get a good rest before tackling a series of flakes (the first and largest of which can be slung) leading to a difficult move (second crux) to get over the final bulge.
From here the climbing is relatively easy until the finish on top.
Location
Left end of the West Face - look for the start holds ledge around head-height.
Scramble over to the tourist steps then walk down.
Scramble over to the tourist steps then walk down.
Protection
The start is an unprotected high ball that requires calm and controlled movements off of marginal hands and feet for the grade. First piece of protection is about 20 ft off the ground, but it protects well after this first crux is completed.
Crash pad and spotting from your belayer would be a good idea.
Bring a sling to throw around the flake.
Crash pad and spotting from your belayer would be a good idea.
Bring a sling to throw around the flake.
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