Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m)
GPS: 50.58017, -3.75538
FA: unknown
Page Views: 615 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jamie Sookprasong on Aug 15, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Jack Copland

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Description Suggest change

British Trad Grade: VS 5b (first 20ft) Probably 5.10b R, since a fall climbing the crystals above the mantle would hurt (use a mat)

Start with both hands on a good ledge about head height. Gain the ledge then make delicate moves out left to gain the jug at the bottom of the angled crack about 20ft off the ground (first crux). Here you can place your first piece of protection (small cam) or exit left.

British Trad Grade: E1 5b

Climb up to the main break and get a good rest before tackling a series of flakes (the first and largest of which can be slung) leading to a difficult move (second crux) to get over the final bulge.

From here the climbing is relatively easy until the finish on top. The descent is via the tourist route from the summit. Very large cut holds (early 1800s).

Location Suggest change

Left end of the West Face - look for the start holds ledge around head-height.

Scramble over to the tourist steps then walk down.

Protection Suggest change

The start is an unprotected high ball that requires calm and controlled movements off of marginal hands and feet for the grade. First piece of protection is about 20 ft off the ground, but it protects well after this first crux is completed.

Crash pad and spotting from your belayer would be a good idea.

Bring a sling to throw around the flake.

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