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Routes in Mount Tupper

South Rib (full) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Wolfgang Koehler, Edward Feuz Jr, Gottfried Feuz, 1906
Page Views: 293 total · 20/month
Shared By: N. Aksamit on Aug 15, 2017
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This climb is mainly 4th class scrambling with three distinct cruxes that can all be done at no harder than 5.3. After navigating one's way to the large Hermit gendarme along the ridge, move out right (there was another belay anchor here, not included in the descent discussion) onto a somewhat exposed traverse for one pitch. Follow broken ledges up and right as high as you can on scrambling terrain until you have to surmount an obvious left facing corner. The corner crack and chimney slightly right of the corner crack offer the easiest options (5.3) yet still the technical crux. Crack climbing on the face left of the crack is another option at a slightly higher grade. More scrambling to the final summit block leads to an airy arete finish and the large flat summit. Descend the route. Pay attention to rap station locations on the way up as they can be somewhat hidden on the way back down.

Location

From Hermit Meadows follow cairns and faint trails to the Tupper shoulder, above the Tupper glacier. The obvious West Ridge snakes down and connects to the shoulder with a rough beaten single track until boulder scrambling starts.

Protection

All trad. Three fixed rappel chain anchors, and three more slung blocks with maillons (Aug 2017).

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