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Routes in Eboshi

Golden Half S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goldfinger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Justice S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ojichan no Dotadota S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sontaku S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taiyo ga Ippai (Lots of Sun) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time Tunnel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tough S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ichihara
Page Views: 14 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bryan Liao on Aug 15, 2017
Admins: Christian Storms

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Description

First ascent 2017-August-14. Dual meaning to the name: 1970s J-pop band as well as the location between Goldenfinger and Half and Half.

Beginning is fairly close to neighboring climbs; in order to maintain separation, the left side (both terrace and jug hold) is off limits at the second bolt crux.
First bolt is moves on slabby holds to the second bolt crux on worse hands and feet. Climb eases up after that.

Location

Between Goldenfinger and Half and Half.

Protection

Bolts to fixed anchor and fixed carabiners. As usual for the area.

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