Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Glenn Woloski and Harry Young
Page Views: 212 total · 13/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 14, 2017 with updates from Michael Bae
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Great route that climbs steeper than the usual Squamish 5.10.

Thread on Squamish Climbing Form: squamishclimbing.com/squami…

P1 - Start on the right side of the base area and move towards the bolt on the left below the thin crack. Climb the crack to the belay ledge. This pitch doesn't see much sun and is a bit mossy. The belay bolts are to the left, but look for the rap bolts about 50' to the right and remember to hit those on the way down. 20m pitch.

P2 - The money pitch. Take either the left hand/fist crack or the right thin crack. We took the left crack. It's steep, solid jamming all the way to the undercling roof. I had two #3s and one #4. If you want to sew it up, bring another #4. There is a horizontal crack midway which helps with the gear. The steep crack just below the crux undercling is #2/#3 camalot size, so save one of each for that section if you want to sew it up. Bust out the undercling (crux for me) and pull around the roof. Easy climbing leads to the bolts directly overhead. 25m pitch.

P3 - Move the belay down and to the right. Launch up the gently overhanging handcrack for 40 feet (sweetness!) to the bolt protecting a weird step left. Climb overlaps/underclings to the anchor, which is way up there. 30m pitch.

Descent: Rap the route with a 60m route. Hit the rap anchors about 50' of the belay bolts atop P1. I almost missed them coming down, so keep your eyes out.

Location

See area description. After hiking up you'll end up below the Pox Wall. Before hitting the wall take a faint trail to the right and follow it for 10 minutes. The route is pretty far right.

Protection

We did the fist crack version and a comfortable rack would be double crams from fingers to #3 camalot. I had one #4 camalot, but two would have sewed it up. Finger crack version looked like it took good great from small to green camalot.

Photos

Pavcha B
Squamish, BC
 
Pavcha B   Squamish, BC
 
This climb is epic! Too bad the first pitch is quite dirty! Definitely deserves more traffic. Jun 22, 2018
Michael Bae
Vancouver, British Columbia
  5.10b/c
Michael Bae   Vancouver, British Columbia
  5.10b/c
Pitch 2 is some of the finest hands and fists in Squamish! I agree with Pavcha, the first pitch was mossy... worth checking out Poxy Wall while you are up there as well, climbs on the left (Heel hookers arete, etc) haven't fully grown over.

The new guidebook states the 2nd pitch is 5.10d, felt especially soft for the grade. It felt a little harder than the 10b roof pitch of blazing saddles. Jul 8, 2018