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> Rogers Pass
> Mt Tupper
South Rib (full)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 2
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Routes in Mount Tupper
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South Rib (full) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Ridge T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2600 ft (788 m), 20 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | David P. Jones, Glen T. Spellman. July 17, 1972 |
| Page Views: | 1,953 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Ethan B on Aug 14, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Description
The clear and obvious line on Tupper all the way from the highway up to the summit. The FA party did not climb the "headwall" of the rib to the summit but rather traversed the big ledge to the West Ridge (5.8 climbing up to this point). We found solid 5.10 climbing up the upper portion.
The climbing is a bit varied and route finding a little tricky. Lower down follow bushy ledges on the left side of the ridge. The crest itself seems to provide harder climbing and we had to rap back to the left at one point after a dead end.
The upper pitches are spectacular with great views of the real Tupper headwall on the right.
Plan for a long day car-to-car.
The climbing is a bit varied and route finding a little tricky. Lower down follow bushy ledges on the left side of the ridge. The crest itself seems to provide harder climbing and we had to rap back to the left at one point after a dead end.
The upper pitches are spectacular with great views of the real Tupper headwall on the right.
Plan for a long day car-to-car.
Location
Park at the Hermit Meadows trailhead and walk along highway 1 (east) until reaching the first snow tunnel. Follow the faint road to above the snow tunnel and ascend the obvious couloir to the start of the route.
Descend the West Ridge back to the Hermit Meadows bivy site and follow the trail back to the road.
Descend the West Ridge back to the Hermit Meadows bivy site and follow the trail back to the road.
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