Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Andy Gresh and David Kozak
Page Views: 356 total · 11/month
Shared By: David Kozak on Aug 13, 2017
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan

You & This Route


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Description

Each pitch is in the 5.7 to 5.8 range, except for the first two friction pitches which are largely unprotected 5.0. the last pitch is the crux. It trends left to right through overhang on the only loose rock on the route. Each pitch has protection in the hard sections.

Location

The route ascends the longest stretch of rock to the right of the Ptarmigan slabs. Refer to page 331 of the Craggs and Enevold Lofoten Climbs guidebook (2017) for a reference picture. Where Puffins Dare is right of route 4 and right of the green gully pictured in the guide. The route ascends from the lowest part of the slab and climbs slabs and dihedrals to the upper reaches of the wall, passing a prominent dark overhang section at the top of the climb (not visible in the picture on page 331. After the final pitch there is one more that climbs over slabs (5.0) and tundra to an unroping area. We did not follow the guide book's suggested descent but instead angled more to descender's right. We did one rappel from a tree.

Protection

a single rack including an assortment of wires through number 3 camelot works fine.

Photos

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