All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > W Kootenays > Valhalla Mountains > Mt Gimli
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|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||JT Croston, Aaron Kristiansen, Troy Swanson|
|Page Views:||50 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||JT Croston on Aug 13, 2017|
P1. Climb up the obvious left facing corner for 60 to a small ledge about 10 m below the ridge line (save a BD #3 for the anchor). A 70 rope could probably get you onto the ridge which is the top of the second pitch on the original route, stay right in the corner and place gear when given the opportunity. P2. Climb out of the corner into some face climbing with large left facing flakes and corers to a head wall jam crack ending in a comfortable alcove. Stay left on the face. (5.8) P3. From belay step left to some shallow cracks which lead to steep rock on positive holds past a bolt to gain the long layback and finger crack above. This pitch is clearly visible from the base of the route and has a bolted station (5.10d). P5 Traverse right past two bolts to gain the bolt protected large left facing corner. Muscle your way up the short crux section, or just pull on the bolts to the bolted station. (5.11+/5.9 C1). Climb through the steep roof above on positive holds for about 10 m than up low angle rock to a bolted station below a small roof just off the south ridge route (5.10a). Ramble to the top along the south ridge (5.7).
Route starts in an large left facing corner just left of the top of the talus field about the "beach".