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Routes in Mount Gimli

Another Dimension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
East Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
North Face Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sailor Jerry T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Slave to Gravity T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Slave to Gravity (Direct Start) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
South Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Space Jam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A1 PG13
Valhalla Gold T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: JT Croston, Aaron Kristiansen, Troy Swanson
Page Views: 44 total · 3/month
Shared By: JT Croston on Aug 13, 2017
Admins: Kate Lynn

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P1. Climb up the obvious left facing corner for 60 to a small ledge about 10 m below the ridge line (save a BD #3 for the anchor). A 70 rope could probably get you onto the ridge which is the top of the second pitch on the original route, stay right in the corner and place gear when given the opportunity. P2. Climb out of the corner into some face climbing with large left facing flakes and corers to a head wall jam crack ending in a comfortable alcove. Stay left on the face. (5.8) P3. From belay step left to some shallow cracks which lead to steep rock on positive holds past a bolt to gain the long layback and finger crack above. This pitch is clearly visible from the base of the route and has a bolted station (5.10d). P5 Traverse right past two bolts to gain the bolt protected large left facing corner. Muscle your way up the short crux section, or just pull on the bolts to the bolted station. (5.11+/5.9 C1). Climb through the steep roof above on positive holds for about 10 m than up low angle rock to a bolted station below a small roof just off the south ridge route (5.10a). Ramble to the top along the south ridge (5.7).


Route starts in an large left facing corner just left of the top of the talus field about the "beach".


Single BD 0.1 and 0.2. Doubles 0.3 to 2, one #3, nuts. 60 or 70 m rope. Crux has a bolt ladder.



More About Slave to Gravity (Direct Start)