Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: FA Tuttle and Davol. FFA Joe Hedge 1986
Page Views: 988 total · 22/month
Shared By: King Tut on Aug 11, 2017
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

I went lookin' for my own Butterballs or Pinky Paralysis and this one is as good as any in the Park. Down low there is a bit of a reach problem at a little roof that requires pulling on some flared locks up to a no hands rest (5.11 height dependent). After the no hands continue up to an overhanging off-fingers splitter (5.11) that will test your endurance to the bolted belay. As with Police State if you are tempted to recon above to the huge ledge beware of loose blocks right above the belay resting on sloping sand....But there is some potential up there.

Location

To the left of Lehamite Falls.

Protection

Thin wires to maybe 3" cams. Save some 3/4-1" cams and such for the top. 2 rope rappel.

Photos

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