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Routes in Lehamite Falls

Knuckle Buster T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maps and Legends T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Police State T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wand, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: FA Tuttle and Davol. FFA Joe Hedge 1986
Page Views: 384 total · 25/month
Shared By: King Tut on Aug 11, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


I went lookin' for my own Butterballs or Pinky Paralysis and this one is as good as any in the Park. Down low there is a bit of a reach problem at a little roof that requires pulling on some flared locks up to a no hands rest (5.11 height dependent). After the no hands continue up to an overhanging off-fingers splitter (5.11) that will test your endurance to the bolted belay. As with Police State if you are tempted to recon above to the huge ledge beware of loose blocks right above the belay resting on sloping sand....But there is some potential up there.


To the left of Lehamite Falls.


Thin wires to maybe 3" cams. Save some 3/4-1" cams and such for the top. 2 rope rappel.


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Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
Guidebook raiting :"Maps and Legends 5.11b **" Jan 24, 2018
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
@Alexey, go do it and see what you think. Joe Hedge was 6'6". But wtf do I know. GLHF Alexey. Jan 24, 2018

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