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Routes in Lehamite Falls/Indian Canyon

Knuckle Buster T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Maps and Legends T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Police State T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wand, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Dennis Oakeshott, 1975
Page Views: 156 total, 38/month
Shared By: King Tut on Aug 11, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a Valley Classic splitter finger crack. Not well known because it was not in the "select" guides but as good as any in the Park. Think "Mr. Natural" if a little shorter.

Hiking along the base after the ladder adventure approach you will notice this route starting from a sloping ledge and a maple tree. Patiently work in some wires then fire some thin locks to where the crack opens up a bit. Sustained but lowish angle fingers from there to a fixed anchor (bolts). Modern sticky shoes that work in thin cracks make this easier than the original 5.10d rating, imo.

A perfect splitter as good as any in the park and must do on the Yose fingers circuit. A Chris Falkenstein (Author of Tuolumne Guide) classic.

Location

To the right of Lehamite Falls.

Protection

RPs and Wires to start then cams to ~2" IIRC. Take some larger just in case maybe but scoping from the base may allow you to leave the 3" stuff. TCUs useful.

Photos

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King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
First digit locks for the crux at the bottom. Aug 11, 2017