Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Dennis Oakeshott, 1975
Page Views: 578 total · 28/month
Shared By: King Tut on Aug 11, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a Valley Classic splitter finger crack. Not well known because it was not in the "select" guides but as good as any in the Park. Think "Mr. Natural" if a little shorter.

Hiking along the base after the ladder adventure approach you will notice this route starting from a sloping ledge and a maple tree. Patiently work in some wires then fire some thin locks to where the crack opens up a bit. Sustained but lowish angle fingers from there to a fixed anchor (bolts). Modern sticky shoes that work in thin cracks make this easier than the original 5.10d rating, imo.

A perfect splitter as good as any in the park and must do on the Yose fingers circuit. A Chris Falkenstein (Author of Tuolumne Guide) classic.

Location

To the right of Lehamite Falls.

Protection

RPs and Wires to start then cams to ~2" IIRC. Take some larger just in case maybe but scoping from the base may allow you to leave the 3" stuff. TCUs useful.

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
  5.10b/c
King Tut   Citrus Heights
  5.10b/c
First digit locks for the crux at the bottom. Aug 11, 2017
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
Guidebook rating: "Knuckle Buster 5.11a ** Jan 24, 2018
King Tut
Citrus Heights
  5.10b/c
King Tut   Citrus Heights
  5.10b/c
@Alexey....guidebooks been wrong before and will be again (apologies to Ronnie Deed). Its easier than Serenity Crack or Mr. Natural. Jan 24, 2018
My notes indicate that we climbed an early ascent of Knuckle Buster in April, 1974. Back then, it was noted that this was 5.10d. Are my notes wrong about the date? May 2, 2018
Jake Ramsey
Yosemite, CA
  5.10c
Jake Ramsey   Yosemite, CA
  5.10c
Just climbed this today and the crack was filled with dirt towards the end of the fingers before the .75 section. I was able to hold on and pull through and then cleaned it out really well on the way down. Great climb and well worth the hike. May 8, 2018