Type: Trad, 3000 ft, 30 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Mariarcher & Jovane, 1982
Page Views: 337 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ben Lepesant on Aug 11, 2017
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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One of the greatest climbs in the Alps. The hardest pitch is the first, but people get lost and tired towards the end, when 5.10+ face climbing with little gear demands stamina. The only not-so-great pitch is the one after the big ledge. It is possible to bivy on this ledge. Bring comfy shoes and don't underestimate the "easy" pitches. From the top, it takes 15 minutes to the cable car, which typically runs until 4 PM.


A short scramble (5.2) leads to the 5.11 crux pitch. If you miss the cable car, it is a long walk back down to the car, first over the glacier, then the ski slope/rock, and then the road...


nuts and a rack of cams, plenty of slings&kevlar for threads, as well as a couple quickdraws.