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Routes in 3. Big Wall

Benedictus/Masterpiece T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dreamin' T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Ghost (Clean Aid), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ R
Ghost, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ghostrider T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Hierophant Tower T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Labyrinth Wall Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Magical Mystery Tour .(The Girdle /Traverse of Cannon Cliff) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Drop of Water. V T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3
VMC Direct Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Paul Ross, John Bragg, Michael Peloquin July 1971 FFA Will Carey and Michael Larson August 8th 2015
Page Views: 226 total · 26/month
Shared By: Eli on Aug 10, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

P1: Get to the top of Triple S Buttress. Climb a right facing corner system to the top of the pedestal, or go around the pedestal and climb the first pitch of Sam's Swan song to the pedestal. 5.7, 2 bolt belay.
P2: Right arching crack into a bolt ladder. Do some hooking between bolts, following the right-most ladder to a two bolt anchor.
P3: Ancient rivet ladder to a multiple bolt belay below the large overlap.
P4: Bust out left under the overlap, hand sized and larger pieces are helpful here to get through this section, once you're at the corner find a bolt to clip and then head up on some heads and or ball nuts towards a bolted belay on a good foot ledge. This pitch has some blocks on it that are intimidating to climb around.
P5: Free at 5.9+, emphasis on the +, leave the belay and head up through an apparent weakness in a kind of stem box looking feature towards a massive ledge with a nice bolted anchor under the ghost roof. To aid this pitch have some hooks and small cams ready. Pro is not abundant.
P6-8: Do the Ghost Roof (Old school A4 or 5.12R?), or finish on Sam's Swan Song through some scary 5.7R pitches.

If you just wanted to climb The Ghost, it is possible to Rap from the top of P5 with 2 60m ropes. Retreat is easy from this route until you start P6.

Location

From the top of Triple S Buttress, Locate a right arching crack that leads to bolt ladders. The meat of this route is p2-5, but don't underestimate the difficulty of the top.

Protection

A C2/3 Aid rack including doubles of cams, some bat hooks, some ball nuts(maybe), rivet hangers, and some tiny nuts if you like placing that kind of thing. Many cam placements, and a good amount of bolts.

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