Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tyler Phillips, Luke Douglas, Pat and Kristen Bardsley
Page Views: 489 total · 30/month
Shared By: zoso on Aug 9, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


A very easy but relatively entertaining 3 pitch romp.

P1: 5.7. 3 clips then EZ terrain up a crack/face to chains on the left.

P2: 5.7+. Up the obvious bolt line starting with a pin. Thought the crux of the route was here not on P1 as the Granite Guide suggests.
Head directly up to the roof and place a directional for your follower then walk right to chains.

P3: 5.6. Link a clusterfest of chicken heads via clips until a move left lands you in a crack and then up to chains.

Not sure you can link any pitches due to the nature of P2.


This little rig is right on the trail to the Fin approach. Hopskotch up on chicken heads. The first 3 bolts are obvious and closely spaced on a slab facing west.

Getting off the bastard:
1. Double rope rap from top of P3 to top anchor of Wasatch Harlem, then a 35m rap to the dirt (i.e. with a 70m).
2. 3 single raps with a 70m
3. I suppose you could descend the same way you got up here with three 60m raps, but that'd be relatively annoying.


Mixed. Singles to #3. Nothing micro needed. Well protected the whole way. Chains at each belay.


Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Where does this start on the trail? Sounds like a fun way to start the main routes. Aug 17, 2017
Where does this start on the trail?

It starts right off the trail as you head up a steep section hugging the rock of the lower Fin Buttress. Your right shoulder will be rubbing the rock as you pull on bushes to get up the trail, and you look up and see three bolts heading up some black chikenheads. This is a good little route, and when you rap off you end up at the start of Wasatch Harlem, another good slab route. Aug 17, 2017
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The 1st pitch anchor is to the left of the climbing. I missed it and linked the first 2 pitches. They link well if you use long runners. With stretch, you can rap from p3 with a single 70 to the Pabst Smear anchors but safer to do 3 raps. Oct 9, 2017
ddriver   SLC
Pitch 3 is really good. Best to approach via the Wasatch Harlem however. Oct 9, 2017
Decent little route. Reduce the runout after bolt three by slinging a chicken head. Oct 15, 2017
Scott Morris
Bountiful, UT
Scott Morris   Bountiful, UT
An enjoyable, casual route with some good variety. The first pitch anchor is on a nice flat ledge off to the left, but it almost seemed to take you off route a bit. To begin the 2nd pitch I actually downclimbed slightly and traversed right maybe 10 feet in order to clip the pin and climb the really nice flake feature. Each pitch is worth doing, but pitch 2 was the highlight for me. Nov 14, 2017