Avg: 1.9 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Tyler Phillips, Luke Douglas, Pat and Kristen Bardsley|
|Page Views:||1,101 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||zoso on Aug 9, 2017|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P1: 5.7. 3 clips then EZ terrain up a crack/face to chains on the left.
P2: 5.7+. Up the obvious bolt line starting with a pin. Thought the crux of the route was here not on P1 as the Granite Guide suggests.
Head directly up to the roof and place a directional for your follower then walk right to chains.
P3: 5.6. Link a clusterfest of chicken heads via clips until a move left lands you in a crack and then up to chains.
Not sure you can link any pitches due to the nature of P2.
Getting off the bastard:
1. Double rope rap from top of P3 to top anchor of Wasatch Harlem, then a 35m rap to the dirt (i.e. with a 70m).
2. 3 single raps with a 70m
3. I suppose you could descend the same way you got up here with three 60m raps, but that'd be relatively annoying.