Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
FA: John Bragg, Don Hamilton 1980
> k. The Slime Wall
Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
You'll climb straight up towards a thin seam, just down and left of a left-facing corner, then over a small roof near the end of the climb.
Big moves between good holds and gear lead to the seam, where a red tricam is the only piece of gear you can fiddle in the little pod above the detached block. Move up and left toward a thin seam splitting the roof, and then make the hard traverse right to the left-facing corner. Easier climbing leads to a stance for a gear anchor.
Start to the left of Frustration Syndrome
, just a few feet right of a oak tree near the cliff, at a cleanish section of rock.
Bring small gear, micro wires, and a red tri-cam. Traverse right at the top to the Frustration bolts