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5.10, Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Alan Goldbetter, Emily Wetzel 17-Sep-2017
International > Europe > Norway > Lofoten > Henningsvaer to Kalle

Description

Start on the arete that forms the right hand side of the cave with a very prominent wide crack.
P1: Start by climbing the grassy slab to the base of the roof. Pull over the roof and continue up the crack to a ledge and a stance (fixed gear anchor) 30m.
P2: Climb the flake and left-facing corner on the right side of the ledge until corner ends and you can move right, around the corner, and to a ledge/stance 7m.
P3: Climb the dirty, grassy ramp up and right until reaching a tree with rappel slings beneath a small overhang.
The crack itself is excellent and not quite as hard as it looks. P2 is okay and P3 is terrible, neither are recommended.

Location

Two hundred meters to the right of the route Time is a Disaster there is a very prominent wide crack on the arete that forms the right hand side of an obvious, large cave (but not inside of it).

Protection

Bring cams in the #3-#5 size range. Climb P1 and lower from the station there. Or rappel the entire route in 1x60m rappel.