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East Ridge Indirect

4th, Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
California > High Sierra > 06 - Little Lak… > Ruby Peak

Description

Reach one of the high points of the western rim of the Rock Creek / Little Lakes valley -- on top of notable standing block.
Most of the more difficult climbing not all that interesting. Much of the less difficult scrambling is talus and sand and scree -- but not too unfriendly, so at least useful as a descent route.

. . Closer to the trailhead than some of the other fun scrambles in this region. And the Mono Pass trail approach is pleasant with pretty views (one of the best hikes in Sierra (or the United States?).

. . Gives access to interesting 5th class ridge traverse to north and perhaps more so to the south ("the Gendarmes") from the summit.

- - . . [ See approach + route on Map ] . . - -

Hike and scramble up the ridge, then when the ridge gets difficult (and interesting) move off to the wide gully / face to the left (south) and go up that - gets steeper - to reach the summit.
. . (So this route might better be named "ESE gully" or "ESE face").

. . Older guidebooks say this way is 3rd class, and perhaps there is some weaving line which keeps that difficulty at all points, but likely it's simpler to just plan on including some 4th class sequences.

Location

Base of East ridge at GPS latitude longitude approx (N37.4097 W118.7707). This can be reached from the Mosquito Flat trailhead parking (N37.4352 W118.7470) by hiking up the Mono Pass trail then taking a left turn for Ruby Lake. Then scramble/hike on talus around east side of lake and cross creek to reach base of ridge - (or around west side of lake, which might be useful for joining the ridge higher up).

Protection

No fixed hardware for anchors or intermediage protection.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dylan Kilby
Golden, CO
  4th
[Hide Comment] 3s4 route for the mountaineering rating. The east ridge has a lot of great, fantastic ways to weave in and out of the gullies as mentioned in the route description - though if you don't keep your route in mind, then you'll definitely hit Class 4 portions. The summit block is a Class 4 spire that sticks right on up.

Sandy scree and talus until the last 200 feet or so, but those last 200 feet offer a lot of fun. Oct 24, 2023