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Routes in Howling Wall

How Yick Ying T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Howling Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Howling, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Robinson Crusoe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
School House Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Varlotta's Daughters Would Totally Flash This T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Who Do You Beliieve T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Varlotta & Will Dameron, Sept. 2002
Page Views: 105 total · 8/month
Shared By: Burton Rosenberger on Aug 7, 2017
Admins: Frances Fierst

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2018 temporary falcon closure Details

Description

This climb starts at the Howling Rappel ledge (the one with the BIG pine tree under the large arete not the small pine tree on the ledge to left)

Traverse as far left as you can on good ledges. Gunk's mantel up into the obvious corner and climb straight up to roof.

Use crack below roof and sketchy feet along with all your ninja skills to traverse right and pull up over the roof at obvious jug.

Continue to climb wedge face to finish.

Rap station will bring you down to the starting Rap ledge and nearly into one of the pine trees below with a hanging rappel.

Rope drag will be an issue. My suggestion is when you place pro into roof on obvious crack remove the last piece you might have placed just below you if you can.

The fall is clean for the most part but half-way under the roof till you pull the roof has ledge decking potential.

Location

To find the howling ledge use the beta topo map found under the narrows page. ~120' past the TV size boulder the trail curves toward the cliff face. The first chest high boulder you come to marks the location of the rap station above at obvious big tree. The climb starts on that rap station 80' off the ground.

This is also the rap station you will use to lower back to the ground later.

Protection

BD Cams #0.4 - #2
60m Rope

Photos

Burton Rosenberger
Woodbridge, va
  5.7
Burton Rosenberger   Woodbridge, va
  5.7
This was a "blind" pitch in that I didn't know this was SHR as I believed it to start from another ledge 30' to the left and below. This was an attempt to get on top of the cliff to see where we should have topped out SHR to know how to do it on another future attempt.

The feet here look great but they are not after you get into the roof and past the vertical crack. The moves for this were odd / sketchy enough to be remembered for sure ... Likely the hardest pitch I have done and it was only a 5.7

PS I don't record these for others but I do share them with others. I use these to go back and review mistakes while I am not "in the moment" so I can better my leading.

Don't watch this if you don't want explicit beta on hidden handholds as I do find and use a couple of them. If you want the "raw" experience I wouldn't watch this video before doing this climb. I have taken screen shots from this video and posted them as beta which should be more than enough for anyone wanting to send this in the future.

Take care and be safe out there.

youtube.com/watch?v=Tr0Av69… Aug 8, 2017
Piotr
San Diego, CA
 
Piotr   San Diego, CA
 
SHR rap station is gone as of 25NOV2017. Nov 27, 2017

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