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Routes in Papago Park

Choss Toss S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Five for Five S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Flapago V0+ 4+
Unkown S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Jonathan Croom, July 2017
Page Views: 89 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jonathan Croom on Aug 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is the most direct route to the summit of the butte. The anchor also provides the best rappel route from the summit. Five bolts were hand drilled on lead on the FA, hence the name. The rock is pretty good for Papago, but terrible by any other standard. You are forced to climb through much loose rock, which warrants an R/X rating.

The route starts at an exposed belay with a single bolt. Traverse left to a second bolt, then go up and left to clip a third bolt before running it out to the anchor straight above.

Note: about 20 feet left of the anchor is a beehive. They didn't bother me at all, but bee careful.

Location

From the pullout on McDowell, head up the loose slope under the large, obvious overhanging wall. About halfway up, scramble onto a third class ledge. Follow this ledge up to belay at the first bolt, above the notch.

Protection

Three bolts plus two bolt anchor.

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