Is this route on your Vedauwoo offwidth list? Well if not, add it... now!
I climbed this route sometime in the summer 15', and it hasn't left my mind since. I have been hesitant to post this route, but it's such a classic offwidth I think it needs to be documented. I am documenting this route, so other OW fanatics can find it and climb it!
I'll try my best to recall route information from memory. This is a fairly vertical, parallel sided, offwidth starting off as #4s and is ever widening as you climb up. If memory serves me right, it becomes a squeeze towards the anchors.
Location
This is on the back side of Reynold's Hill way to the climber's right of Bloodletting but almost directly to the left of Forever War. I'll work on a better description over time.
Protection
Doubles from #4 to #6 and something wide like a Valley Giant for the top. Big Bros might work, but the crack becomes less parallel at the top, and the rock quality worsens a bit. When I climbed it in 2015, it had nice rap anchors.
[Hide Comment] Vivid memories on this route! I remember asking my friend and belayer that day, who had stated they had climbed IBR, "what rack I should bring?" They didn't really seem too concerned and told me doubles were fine. The widest gear I had with me was doubles in 6" cams, one BD #6, and one WC #6. I also thought to ask if she wanted to tether to something. She weighs probably less than 100 lbs., and I was weighting in at about 175 at the time. She cheerfully replied, "Oh no, it will be fine!". The next thing I can remember is being about 15 feet below the anchor I had been fighting this crack for what seemed like eternity, and I had walked my WC as far as it could go and had to leave it by my feet. I severely out weighed my belayer, I was run out and hadn't had much experience in OW'ing yet. Luckily, I somehow fearfully scraped my bum up to the anchors for the onsight.
Fast-forward a year later... I'm hanging out around the camp fire in Vedauwoo describing this same story to some of my offwidth mentors. He stops me and says, "You climbed that without a Valley Giant!? That would have been terrifying!" He and his friend both look at each other and chuckle. I had never felt so bold... a year later....
Long story short, consider taking something wider than a six inch cam. That must be what the pros do....
Aug 7, 2017
Also worth mentioning is the '10c' by Bob Scarpelli just to the right, which takes a wide crack out and over a large roof. About ten years ago, when I was at Parade Rock with Bob, he pointed that one out as a good one to go do.
Aug 20, 2017
[Hide Comment] Yes, JNE, just for the record, it is Main Lane. Sorry, Andy, but the FFA was back in 1993, Harper and Duff. Second FA was Harper and Bechtel 1 week later. Absolutely like Big DogBurlyDiesel's description. It brings back memories of being a bit gripped in the jaws of this one. Great fun?
Sep 3, 2021
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COLORADO
Fast-forward a year later... I'm hanging out around the camp fire in Vedauwoo describing this same story to some of my offwidth mentors. He stops me and says, "You climbed that without a Valley Giant!? That would have been terrifying!" He and his friend both look at each other and chuckle. I had never felt so bold... a year later....
Long story short, consider taking something wider than a six inch cam. That must be what the pros do.... Aug 7, 2017
Longmont, CO
Also worth mentioning is the '10c' by Bob Scarpelli just to the right, which takes a wide crack out and over a large roof. About ten years ago, when I was at Parade Rock with Bob, he pointed that one out as a good one to go do. Aug 20, 2017