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Shelves - Wander Right
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in 7-Lewis
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Blazar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Central - Left Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Central - Left Overlap TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Central - Left Ridge S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Central - Right Overlap TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Far Right Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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IceCube TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Obelix S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Right Edge S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Right Squeeze TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Salamander S,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Shelves - Wander Left TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shelves - Wander Right TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trail Slab - Face Right TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Trail Slab - Left Corner TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trail Slab - Middle Prongs S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trail Slab - Right Corner S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Trail Slab - Right Gully TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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TS Short Squeeze TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 612 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Three interesting sequences each with a different rock style.
Up the right side crack on right side of face of detached flake.
Step left, then up along left side of bushes, and on straight up into dihedral. Next traverse Right about six feet to below crack.
Up the crack and diagonal right, finish straight up to right side off cliff-top bush.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Up the right side crack on right side of face of detached flake.
Step left, then up along left side of bushes, and on straight up into dihedral. Next traverse Right about six feet to below crack.
Up the crack and diagonal right, finish straight up to right side off cliff-top bush.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Location
12-15-ft-high detached flake which is about 20-25 feet uphill right from where main access trail meets cliff.
- - > see on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
- - > see on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
Protection
Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, with two carabiners.
. . (All bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch, but lower hanger is Plated steel - installed on 2017. Carabiners, chain, and quick-links are Plated steel - installed in 2018).
No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Top-Roping: Reaching the two-bolt top anchor from above requires down-climbing steep-ish rock + dirt with lots of loose rock, so better to reach it by Leading the route to the right: Central Slab - Left Ridge.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
. . (All bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch, but lower hanger is Plated steel - installed on 2017. Carabiners, chain, and quick-links are Plated steel - installed in 2018).
No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Top-Roping: Reaching the two-bolt top anchor from above requires down-climbing steep-ish rock + dirt with lots of loose rock, so better to reach it by Leading the route to the right: Central Slab - Left Ridge.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
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