Four interesting sequences each with a different rock style.
Up the center (a bit right) of face of detached flake. Next step step down left behind top of flake to under overhang.
Straight over the overhang, and up to roof.
Pull the roof, then diagonal left up to steep face.
Up left edge of steep face.
. . Variation (more interesting): Instead go up left-of-center on steep face (5.10b).
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Top anchor is 2 bolts connected with chain, with two carabiners.
. . (All bolts + upper hangers are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch, but lower hanger + carabiners + 3-link chain + quick-links are plated steel - installed in 2017).
No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.Top-Roping
: Top-Roping: Perhaps could use tree above top of the cliff as a facultative anchor for protection for the group leader to use rope to get down to top anchor.warning
: Lots of loose rock on slope between trees and top of continuous rock as of 2017, so clean this (with no one anywhere near underneath) before doing any top-roping.
For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for this Lewis sector
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.