Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eli Boardman 8-6-17 ?
Page Views: 108 total · 7/month
Shared By: Eli Boardman on Aug 6, 2017
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: Petroglyphs and Private Land Details

Description

This is a fairly easy and fun way to summit Terrapin Wall without a rope. From the base of the wall below the rappel tree, head south and up on some easy, grassy ledges until the ledges end and a deeply inset chimney is visible to the climber's right. The chimney is rather clammy at rhe bottom, and look out for loose rock (I trundled a huge flake that was incredibly loose and quite dangerous before being tossed). The crux is low, the exposure is mild, and it is actually rather fun to chimney the ~2.5 foot slot, and there are plenty of positive holds. The chimney ends at the grassy ledge above the rappel tree, but the route continues several hundred feet higher over broken gullies and slabs to the suprisingly nice summit perch. Descend by downclimbing the whole route or downclimbing to the dead tree and rappelling (recommended).

It is called the Grateful Chimney in keeping with the Grateful Dead theme of the crag and also because I was grateful for an easy and safe summit route.

Location

It starts at the bottom of the dark, northwest-trending gully that starts south of the rappel tree.

Protection

If you want to use a rope, some small cams would be suficient.

Photos

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