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Routes in Negro Bill Canyon

Guides' Crack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown aka Prowler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown, aka pack rat infestation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Nate Sydnor and Ed Oak (5.10 C1) - FFA Herb Crimp and Nate Sydnor
Page Views: 263 total · 21/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Aug 5, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Any guide who is a climber and who has worked in this canyon has surely looked at this crack. The rock is actually quite good, and the climbing is varied and engaging. The thin start is likely the technical crux, but some steep thin hands jamming in the zig-zag crack up high offers a stimulating finish. Expect a little sugary rock, but overall this route is safe, with good protection, and better than I had expected.

Location

Prominent crack directly up the prow that stands above the south end of the arch. In order to approach, it is recommended to take the route to the alternate rappel and hike out to the top of the turret with a static line. Wrap the whole sugary summit as an anchor, then take the alternate rappel in and climb out.

Protection

Doubles from less-than-tips to #3 Camalot, and a single #4

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