Type: Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Jason Haas or Gerry Roach, maybe someone before?
Page Views: 217 total · 10/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Aug 4, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun, obscure route on what seems like a rarely visited formation. We started on the left and aimed for the giant "diving board". You could stop here for your first pitch. We simulclimbed about 350' until the big tree ledge 2/3 of the way up, but there were places you could belay.

From this big ledge, you can stay near the left side of the face to reach a small false summit and then do a short downclimb to another big ledge. Or you can just skirt this block on the right to reach the ledge. The Haas and Roach guidebooks show the final pitch going up the crack that splits the final summit tower. I'm not sure how that is, because we climbed a fun crack through an overhang on the right edge of the summit towers. We topped out on the right side of the chimney that splits the top and stepped across to the left to reach the top. You have to reverse these moves to get down, and there is no gear.

Location

There is a nice staging area a little uphill to the left of the low point of the face. Gerry Roach's guidebook has a topo that shows the start further right, but it looked hard and obviously unprotected.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

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